Our reclaimed wood tables and case good products are constructed of old weathered recycled barn wood and will vary in appearance from piece to piece. Nail holes, uneven planks, board cupping, old pegs, patches, cracks, saw marks, water marks, wormholes, sunspots and dents are natural characteristics of the old wood and should not be viewed as defective but rather celebrated as part of our national heritage. Our best effort is made in the finishing process to blend these characteristics together however we intentionally do not remove or fill all these “blemishes” in order to preserve the historic authenticity. Very rustic tables will be more apt to have some or all of these characteristics than a table that has been sanded down to a smoother level. We do not artificially distress our tables and do not have control over where these characteristics may be on any given board.
Wood Shrinkage and Expansion
In a sense the solid wood breathes and will move at different times of the year in response to the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) in your home for which we are not responsible. A dry home will cause the wood to move or crack more than a home with proper humidity. You may notice a board move ever so slightly or develop small cracks during these seasonal shifts. Wood shrinkage (most common in dry environments) may cause old cracks to open more so and can also cause a small break or chip in the finish. While we triple seal all our products on all sides to prevent this from occurring, wood movement is a natural occurrence that can be remedied easily at home with some simple, easy to apply products. If you are having any solid wood product transported in the drier, colder months it’s advisable to install a humidifier temporarily in the area to ease the wood into its new environment.
What are you getting when you get a (1″) verses a (2″) table?
The national standard for lumber thickness is referred to by the “¼” system”. The quarter system calls out the boards rough thickness in ¼” increments. The rough thickness refers to the thickness of the board before it has been planed smooth. For example a board that has a rough thickness of 4/4″ was 1″ thick before it was planed. After the board is planed the thickness should be 13/16″, or close to ¾”. A (1″) or (2″) thick table therefore will not be a true one or two inches by the time it is ready to be made into a table.
Imagine the boards coming off a barn…They are old, weathered, rough and need to be planed down to varying degrees. The smoother you are wanting the final look, the more sanding will be needed. By the time, for instance, a 2″ thick table is ready for finishing, the same table might be 1.5″ thick… In the finishing process we sand our tables again (essential for the finishing process) thus further reducing the thickness. An average finished thickness for a 1″ top will range between 1/2″ – 3/4″ thick; an average finished thickness for a 2″ top will range between 1.5″-1.75″ thick. Again, these are averages… If the boards in their original state were extremely rough both sides will have needed to be planed and can result in even a thinner than average board thickness.
About Breadboard Ends
Breadboard ends are a centuries old technique that was originally used to prevent warping and cracking of very wide planks. Given new construction techniques, breadboard ends are now optional. Throughout the year, especially in the drier and colder months, you may notice that the breadboard ends extend beyond the rest of the tabletop. Rest assured, they are performing their intended function and are not defective. They will recede in the warmer, more humid months. As moisture returns to the air the breadboard ends will once again be flush with the width of the table. If you live in a dry climate you might want to consider a table without breadboard ends if this is inclined to bother you. If you elect not to have breadboard ends, it is common for there to be slight “checking” or cracking on the end grain. This is normal and not considered a defect.
Fine cracks, cracked fill and any exposed wood resulting from wood movement can be filled easily with wood putty or can be remedied cosmetically with a stain stick, wax pen or colored paste wax. All can be found easily in most hardware stores.
Repair and Replacement
We will repair or replace a table where splitting has occurred of ¼” wide or more. We will be happy to assist you in small or larger repairs however; we are not responsible for getting the table back to our facility to do so. Should one of our pieces become structurally unstable and require a repair or replacement, LakeandMountainHome will stand behind our product and will work with you toward a satisfactory resolution. With proper care this furniture will last for generations.